avionbianca   Blog for s/v Avion

After the two hurricanes passed the islands, we sailed from Moloki to Maui in about 6 hours.  We had 25 to 30 knot winds in our face at the start of the crossing, but it calmed down to 20-24 knots, and we were able to raise the main sail with a double-reef.  We made 6 to 7 knots on a tight reach across the channel.  After we got into the wind shadow of Maui, the winds died and we motored down to Lahaina.  The Lahaina Yacht Club has eight mooring balls outside the harbor, and we took #2, and settled down.  At dusk, we rowed the inflatable into the harbor to walk around the Old Town area. I like to row, but this mooring ball was pretty far out, and the return trip took forever in the dark. The next day, we rowed back in against the wind and the current to make our landing official with the Lahaina Yacht Club and the Harbormaster.  While meeting with the Harbormaster, we asked about a slip and he sail he had one available.  When there is a choice between a slip and a mooring ball, a slip is the obvious choice.  We moved that afternoon into the harbor, slip #84.  We now have water and electricity, and can walk into town whenever we want.

We have been sailing for 2 months, living on a boat, and doing incredible things. Our relationship has been strong and steady, but we both realized we needed some down time.  My allergies flared-up and I started having trouble sleeping, and I needed to rest.  Thus, we have not been terribly ambitious here on Maui.   We gave each other some space to take took long walks, hang out under the huge Banyan tree  near the harbor, visit the Lahaina Yacht Club, and watch some USOpen Tennis (Serena lost to Pliskova) .  Megan decided to buy a hammock for the boat, and I found a place to hang it in the shade, along the boom, so we now have a nice cool place to “hang” (literally) and read, watch the incredible sunsets or sleep.

While we were in Moloki, and old tennis friend called me out of the blue, and asked if I was back from Hawaii yet. I said no, we were still in Hawaii, on the island of Moloki. He said, I have an old friend who lives on Moloki, you have to look him up, he owns a gas station near the harbor.  I went to the two gas stations in the town of Kaunakaki, and learned that Ed had sold his station, and retired, but his wife was working in a credit union. The lady at the gas station said, just go talk to her, she will give you Ed’s number.  So I did; I found her, and she was friendly and interested and said she would tell Ed about my visit.  An hour later, they called and invited us to dinner at the local pizza place.  We connected on many levels.  Ed was born on Moloki, but grew up in the East Palo Alto, and worked for HP, and we had common friends, so the conversation flowed easily.  We both had plans for the next day, but agreed to have breakfast the following day, Saturday, at the Bakery.  After breakfast, they drove us around the island.  They took us to the overlook and the clouds cleared long enough so we could see the peninsula on the north side where the old Leper Colony was housed, and to a beach with an old peer with good snorkeling (we went there the next day).  The dialog was strong enough that we met for dinner that night, at the Cookhouse. We spoke about the economics of life on the island, ranch that owns 60% of the island, the failed Sheraton resort, barges and ferries (the one ferry will shut-down next month), and the several businesses that Ed had started on the island.  He created about 50 jobs on Moloki.   Ed and his wife made our stay in Moloki a much deeper and satisfying experience.

We are planning to leave Lahaina this afternoon, or maybe tomorrow (if we can find the Patriot’s game on TV in a sports bar).  We will sail up to Honolau Harbor on the northern tip of Maui, and drop a hook for a couple of days.  It is supposed to be a great spot for snorkeling, if the water is clear, and the winds are mild.  Then we will sail along the wild and undeveloped north side of Moloki.  The terrain is so rough that there are no roads, so some places can only be reached by boat.  We will then return to Honolulu, and our slip at Kewalo Harbor.

It is time to make a decision about our return to “the mainland,” as the locals say.  Do we stay for the winter, and continue to sail the islands, or return to SF in late September?  The weather window for a return trip closes by the end of September.  If we stay, the next weather window is April of 2017.  So, this is a big decision.  While in Lahaina, we learned that the humpback whales come in January to mate and give birth; we still want to do the sunrise/sunset at the cater on Maui; and there is an active volcano on the big island, and the lava is now flowing all the way to the ocean.  So if we stay, there is lots to do.  The obvious choice is to stay, but we are doing things with intention, so we will evaluate the options when we get back to Oahu.  Stay tuned.