Last week we got up at 5am and took the bus to the Oahu Fish Market. We had been hearing about it from sailors and fishermen who took their catches there to be sold. We signed in and got boots. There was a constant flow of fish coming off boats that just landed, and a walking auction where the buyers inspected the core samples from each fish. The big Ahi were in high demand. I found the Opah quite beautiful. Here is a picture of Megan standing in her boots.
Monday morning, this week we sailed to Molokai. We motor-sailed most of the 40 miles through upwind 20 to 26 knot winds and made Kaunakakai in 9 hours. Tuesday we decided to stay a day and clean up the boat and our bodies; wash off the salt water that splashed and surged over Avion’s bow along the way, rinse our foulies and do laundry. We paid $16.40 to stay one night. I caught a picture of the Molokai Canoe club practicing nearby in the late afternoon.
Wednesday we sailed to Lanai and ManeleBay. We left early but still caught the strong 25 knot trade winds in the channel. We sailed on a reach most of the way, with the second reef in the main, almost due south. About halfway across we were hailed on channel 16 by a tug boat towing a petroleum barge. I had AIS on, so he knew the name of my boat. He hailed “Avion, please respond with your intention to cross my bow. I am towing a petroleum barge 18 hundred yards behind my tugboat.” I looked around and saw the tug was behind the mainsail, which had blocked our view to the west. Once I saw that we had plenty of separation and room to maneuver, I told him we would slow down and cross behind his barge. We changed to a course almost dead down wind and he passed safely in front of us.
We finally got behind the island into the leeward wind shadow. The wind dropped to 12 and then 7 knots. I fired up the Yanmar and we motor-sailed around the western side of Lanai. We came into ManeleBay harbor at dead low tide. Some sailors think this is a good idea, because all the obstacles are exposed, but I am not so sure. As we came around the jetty, a ferry boat was backing out, routinely. I knew the Captain did not see us so I stopped and waited until he completed his turn. We finally passed-by the ferry to port, the water was muddy so we could not see the bottom or how shallow it was. I moved ahead very slowly. Avion hit a rock and bounced but kept moving forward. I then spotted and avoided several more shallow rocks to port. We slowly made it into the basin and took slip #15, straight ahead. The keel was scrapping the top of the soft mud under the slip, but I knew the tide was coming back and we tied up to the dock. Avion was happily floating again in minutes and all was well again. We had two interactions with bigger boats, both of which could have been dangerous.
At sunset We walked over to “Larry’s”, the Four Seasons resort to look around. Larry Ellison bought the island from a Murdock (not Rupert) five years ago. We wandered around and found a sports bar, ordered beers and stayed to eat a local venison burger and watct the CNN summary of the debate. The menu says this is where Bill Gates was married. We decided not to stay overnight, as the rooms start at $1,014 per night, a bit over our budget. We did go back and swim in the pool in the morning, before being outed by the towel lady who demanded our room number. The only choice was to admit to living on a boat; I argued that we spent a lot of money there last night on dinner ($92 for burger and beer), so we thought we might be allowed a quick swim to start the day. This is a picture of the place and beach where we did not stay.
We will sail over to Lahina on Maui tomorrow. It is a 20 mile trip, so we can snorkel in the morning before departing. We have reserved slip #96 in the harbor. We want to come back in early January when Megan’s sister and family come to vacation on Maui, so we are going to complete paperwork for a temporary mooring permit for early January.
This morning, Thursday, we went snorkeling off the jetty. Fresh clear water made the abundant fish quite colorful. We also saw three medium-sized turtles swimming together. We just floated around and watched the fish swim around below us in the clear water. I got a good video of a school of yellow striped fish.
Megan got a video of one turtle swimming along the bottom. She trimmed the beggining and end to make it watchable (this time).
We ate lunch outside on a picnic table overlooking ManeleBay harbor.
I wanted to go snorkeling again, but the wind came up so we took naps in the hammock. Sometimes the hardest decision of the day is when to take a nap.
The plan is to go back in Oahu on Saturday. We will sail 60 miles downwind from Lahina to Honolulu in one day. The trade winds are back up in full force but we will be going with the wind this time.
Extra Bonus: Here is a second, longer video of the same school of yellow fish we saw today. It starts slow but I just float with the school and their movement as a school is quite beautiful.
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Stay tuned….
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